SAN PEDRO - CAY CAULKER, BELIZE 2/18 - 2/24/2018

It's hard to believe, but we have been in Cay Caulker, Belize for three weeks now. Chip left over two weeks ago; Ted went home later that same week; Jaynece, Pat, Elaine and Pete, as well as Cindy, Katie and Brent have all come and gone; while Tom and Noreen arrived on Monday. Combine spending time with visiting friends, which I wouldn't trade for the world, let alone a blog, along with my own procrastination, I'm sure you can see why I'm perpetually behind.

During the week of 2/18 - 2/14 Chip, Ted and I finished our non-stop sail from Isla Mujeras, Mexico to San Pedro, Belize. The original plan was to sail straight through to Banco Chinchorro, which is one of only four Polynesian type atolls in the Western Hemisphere, stay there for a day or two; sail to Xcatal, Mexico for a night; and then to San Pedro, Belize to check into the country. However, because of a strong head current we arrived at the atoll when it was still dark. Plus, there were high winds and pretty big seas. We then sailed along it's leeward side before heading west to Xcatal. When we got there, we took the sails down, in anticipation of motoring through the pass in the reef. But, a lot of things weren't right (i.e., we had to cut a rope from our port side prop, but it was too rough to get in the water, so part of the rope was still there; the pass was pretty narrow; it wasn't marked; and there were big following waves that could have pushed us anywhere), so we put the sails back up and had a nice run to San Pedro. We arrived late in the afternoon on Sunday 2/18. We made it through the reef, and anchored right in front of town, without a problem, other than running over a mooring line, but I won't say who was at the helm then.

To get cleared-in, on Monday I  met with customs, immigration, the Port Authority and the agriculture/heath people. We goofed around town the rest of that day, as well as Tuesday, before sailing to Cay Caulker Wednesday morning. It's only 12 miles away. The contrast between the two islands is pretty striking. I, and everyone else who have visited both so far, really prefer Cay Caulker.

Other stuff:

1. The exchange rate is a consistent 1 US dollar = 2 Belize dollars. You can pay with either. And often when getting change back, you'll get a combination of US and Belize currency. 

2. The solar panels are really affective down here. Not that there is really much more daylight, but the sun is really intense and not a lot of clouds.

3. Though Belize, formerly British Honduras, is an English speaking country and the vast majority of people speak it, Spanish is the dominant language on Ambergris Cay/San Pedro. That's because of it's Mexican heritage. On Cay Caulker, English and Spanish are taught in the schools, but among themselves, the locals all speak a Creole/Pigeon English, which I find impossible to understand. 

4. After being away from Tabitha for 10 days, while I was sick and then getting to Cay Caulker, we had about a week together before my phone lost it's ability to charge. So, I just downloaded different exercise app onto my tablet. I should be able to do the entire workout on the boat. Yesterday was my first day. Hopefully I'll stick with it.

5. People have asked me about having firearms on board for protection. Some people do, but after checking into it, I decided the hassle of checking in and out of countries with a gun wasn't worth it. I do have flares, wasp spray, a bat, etc. Michael, one of the cruisers we met at Isla Mujeras, left Texas with $3000 worth of assorted fire arms and ammunition, but before reaching Mexico, he also decided the hassle of declaring them, or the risk of being caught hiding them, wasn't worth it. He threw them all overboard in 9000 feet of water. That would have been hard to do.

As the seas settled, we had a group of maybe 10 dolphins escort us out of Mexico. As soon as we entered Belize they were gone.

Chip and Ted watching and taking photos of the dolphins.

It's kind of hard to take a photo of a pass through a reef, but the area without white water is the pass coming into San Pedro. This pass is probably one of the primary reasons San Pedro even exists. As you come in you have to take an immediate right to avoid running aground on shallow coral.

After 56 hours of non-stop sailing, we were happy to be at anchor, went to bed early and cleared customs the next day.

Our view of San Pedro from the boat while anchored.

Chip jumped in, discovered that the green line was not only on the port prop, but was also wrapped around the port rudder, which had limited our steering. He got that undone, plus removed the yellow line from the starboard prop.

The Port Authority, where the checking-in fees were paid, is near the south end of Ambergris Cay, which is the island San Pedro is on. Everything coming to the Cay has to enter through this little port. Even though it was only 4-5 miles from town it took over 30 minutes via taxi each way ,because the roads are so lousy. I've never seen worst roads and they were going through residential neighborhoods. We picked up the driver's daughter from day care on the way back.

We're legal. Being an English speaking country, the check-in process, as well as really everything else, is so much easier. However, on March 16th I need to come back to San Pedro to get a 30 day extension to stay in Belize longer.

After check-in, we replaced the quarantine flag with Belize's.

I would characterize this as middle class housing for the local population. I doubt if there is much or any upper class, but there's a lot that's a lot worse.

San Pedro's airport in right in the south part of the downtown. The single runway is about the width of Starship II and the planes take off with steep climbs over the main part of downtown. 

The really nice thing about Belize, as far as sailing goes, it that almost the entire country is inside and protected by the reef. This means that you still get the steady easterly trade winds, but not the waves. That's Starship II at anchor off San Pedro.

My barber shop.

Grayson, my barber, who did a great job considering what he had to work with.

I'm really not sure what these two were up to other than running around with this recently deceased fish.

This is the water taxi terminal in San Pedro. The sea weed on the beach and in the water is everywhere. As it decays it smells. They kind of try to remove it, but don't come close to keeping up. Cay Caulker has it too. Otherwise I think these would be nice beaches.

Chip and Ted proved to be a perfectly adequate crew. Just kidding, I really appreciated all their help. It was really Ted's first time sailing.

This is the typical water taxi that runs between Belize City, Cay Caulker and San Pedro. What i like about them, as well as the fishing boats, snorkel boats, tour boats, scuba boats, etc. is that they are all going full blast all of the time. The water taxi between Belize City and Cay Caulker takes 45 minutes +/- and between Cay Caulker and San Pedro probably a half hour +/-.

The construction techniques continue to amaze me in the year 2018.

Evidently the Red Party has been in the majority for 12 years, and have not accomplished much, especially when it comes to those lousy roads. So, according to my taxi driver the Blue Party is likely to win the government back in the upcoming election. There are political signs and flags everywhere.

Now this chick has skills.

View from our anchorage, of the split that separates Cay Caulker's north and south islands. The buildings with the surrounding umbrellas is the Lazy Lizard Bar and Grill.

A great people watching place.