ISLA MUJERAS 12/31 - 1/6/2018

My last update was two weeks ago this past Saturday (12/30). Dave, Mayo, Charlie, Jamie and I had arrived in Isla Mujeres, after a five day sail from Ft Myers Beach, which included a day in the Dry Tortugas/Ft Jefferson; we had gone through Mexican customs; and really enjoyed being docked at the El Milagro Beach Hotel and Marina.

Isla Mujeras is about 4.5 miles long, less than a half mile wide, has a population of around 13,000 and is an eight mile ferry ride from Cancun. This is almost like being on two different islands. The north end is where the beaches, hotels, souvenir shops and 95% of the tourists stay. Then there is the skinny part of the island, where we are at, which only has room for a road on each side, homes/businesses on the water side of each road and a small gravel military runway in the middle. The north half is a genuine Mexican self sufficient town and seems very removed from the touristy end, except for the golf cart traffic.

In Pre-Columbian times the island was sacred to the Maya goddess of childbirth and medicine. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century they named it "Isla Mujeres" because of the many images of goddesses. The first information available about Isla Mujeres is from the period between 564–1516 AD, when it was part of the Maya province called Ekab. There were 4 Maya provinces in what is today the State of Quintana Roo. The Maya harvested the salt that was produced on the island in the "salinas" (small interior lagoons). The salt was used not only for the preservation of food and as medicine, but also as a generally accepted currency throughout the Mayan region. In the 70's, along with Cancun, Isla Mujeras became popular with tourists. Thankfully, it is no Cancun., as least not yet anyway. I would definitely recommend vacationing here and specifically staying at the El Milagro Beach Hotel and Marina. It is a very cool place.

The morning after we arrived (New Years Eve Day) I picked through El Milagro's assortment of bikes, found one with decent air in the tires, adjusted the seat and tightened the handle bars. I also should have checked the brakes. My intention was to attend services at a church overlooking the Caribbean Sea. However, maybe because it was New Year's Eve, the only services were that night. The doors were open though, so I was able to take a couple photos. Actually I think the views would be kind of a distraction from the services. From there, I continued to pedal south along the east side of the island. This coast is rocky with crashing waves. It's also where the nicest homes are located. At the far south end of the island there is a large sculpture garden, a walkway right on the surf and a Mayan ruin. I decided to wait until Grace gets here to check all that out. The southern point of the island is the first place in Mexico to see each morning's sunrise. I then headed north along the western shore and then through the heart of the town. It includes mostly two story concrete buildings, with a lot of businesses on the lower levels and living spaces behind and above; a kind of mini-Walmart with a pretty decent grocery store; a hospital; a couple small baseball stadiums; a soccer pitch; quite a few covered basketball courts; and a turtle sanctuary. However, virtually everything is in some stage of disrepair and I'm not sure it ever gets fixed. Almost all of the locals are of Mayan decent, so are pretty short. And there are a lot of dogs running around. That afternoon I walked down to the north end of the island, which includes the ferry terminal, almost all of the hotels, really nice beaches, tons of shops and restaurants. Throughout the island there are a LOT of scooters/small motorcycles being driven by the locals, golf carts being driven by the tourists, taxis, small cars/trucks, some bicycles and a surprising number of the locals in bare feet..

For New Years Eve, El Milagro put on a dinner of red snapper, steak and some Mexican side dishes. It was fun and a great way to meet more people. From the hotel roof you could see fireworks at the north end of the island, as well as along the entire coast of the mainland. During the rest of the week Dave and Mayo continued their "Jack Reacher" read-a-thon, as well as socializing on-shore; Jamie and Charlie spent almost all of their time at the north end of the island, and my lack of really getting anything of significance accomplished made me think I need to get into some type of routine. Otherwise the days just slip by far too fast. However, we did change the generator's oil, oil filter and fuel filter, as well as put the outboard and fuel tank back on the dinghy. We had moved them onto the big boat prior to leaving the Dry Tortugas.

The Hart's left Friday morning. I really appreciated their help. I spent the rest of the day, most of Saturday and some of Sunday morning beginning a routine, cleaning the boat and doing a couple small projects. Grace arrived the following day, but more about that next time.

Other stuff:

1. I continue to really enjoy El Milagro Hotel and Marina. Most of both the boat and hotel guests have been here before. Besides Americans, so far there have been guests from Canada, France, Austria, Ireland, Australia, South Africa and Holland. The Canadians seem to be the most fun. The woman pictured below with the parrots is Inga. She's the grumpyish German receptionist/bookkeeper. Every quirky hotel should have an Inga.

2. One day three service men in camouflage, with automatic weapons and a big German Shepherd, along with their commanding officer and someone from immigration, came walking onto the dock. They came because the Navy is automatically called when boats arrive from certain countries. This one's last port of call was Columbia. There wasn't any incident, but it was interesting. The boat is from Leon, France, had sailed to the Caribbean, around Cape Horn (the wrong way), up the west coast of South America, through the Panama Canal, to Columbia and then to here. The crew includes a husband, wife, two sons in their late 20's/early 30's and another who looks about 15.

3. On Tuesday, we finished up our check-in to Mexico by meeting with a representative from the Department of Sanitation (health). He took the tip.

4. Just off the end of our dock is the route that the big party boats use when taking 20 somethings out drinking. You can hear their music from quite a ways away.

5. Earlier I reported sea temperatures in the 90's. That wasn't accurate. My thermometer seems to be 10-15 degrees high. I'm sure the global warming enthusiasts will be disappointed.

6. Before I have mentioned what a pain it is to make the beds on this boat. Well I think I pulled an oblique muscle doing just that.

7. There is some new construction on the island, of which some looks like it got started and then abandoned. The construction techniques, tools/equipment and safety procedures seem more on par with what it may have been 100 years ago.

8. The mini-Walmart is really into big displays. They also play really loud American music.

9. There are only two of us sailing from Isla Mujeras to Belize (2/11 - 2/23), which should include a beam reach sail; some cool anchorages, including at one of only three genuine atolls in the western hemisphere; and some time in Belize. If you're interested and/or have any questions, please let me know.

The latest itinerary:

1/16 - 1/26+/-  In Isla Mujeras sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland – Room for four1/27 - 2/4 In Isla Mujeras sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland - Full, with Chance, Katie and friends on-board
2/5- 2/10+/- In Isla Mujeras sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland - Room for four

2/11 - 2/12+/- In Isla Mujeras preparing for sail to Belize - Room for two with Ted on-board

2/13 - 2/19 +/- Sailing from Isla Mujeras to Belize, including checking-out at Majahual, Mexico and checking-in at San Pedro, Belize - Room for two with Ted on-board2/20+/- Sailing from San Pedro to Cay Caulker - Room for two with Ted on-board

2/21 - 2/23+/- In Cay Caulker - Room for two with Ted on-board2/24 - 3/4+/- In Belize sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland – Full, with Harpo, Jaynece, Pete, Elaine and Ted on-board

3/5+/- Flex time in Belize

3/6 - 3/11+/- In Belize sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland – Full, with Katie, Cindy and Brent on-board

3/12+/- Flex time in Belize

3/13 - 3/19+/- In Belize sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland - Room for four

3/20+/- Flex time in Belize
3/21 - 3/27+/- In Belize sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland – Full, with the Nelson party on-board3/28 - 4/4+/- In Belize sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland – Full, with DJ, Jennie and Delana on-board
4/5 - 4/11+/- In Belize sightseeing, snorkeling and exploring the mainland – Full, with the Nelson party on-board
4/12 - 4/21+/- Cay Caulker, Belize to Roatan, Honduras, with one or two days in Belize, a two day sail and one or two days in Roatan – Full with Dayton, Kristy and their friends on-board
4/22 - 4/29+/- In Roatan and other Bay Islands of Honduras sightseeing and snorkeling – Full, with Nita and family on-board4/30 - 5/6+/- In Roatan and other Bay Islands of Honduras sightseeing and snorkeling – Room for four5/7 - 5/13+/- In Roatan and other Bay Islands of Honduras sightseeing and snorkeling – Room for four5/14 - 5/20+/- In Roatan and other Bay Islands of Honduras sightseeing and snorkeling – Room for four5/21 - 5/27+/- In Roatan and other Bay Islands of Honduras sightseeing and snorkeling – Room for four
5/28 - ?/?? ?????, Stay in Roatan and then most likely head to the Rio Dulce in Guatemala for hurricane season, explore the Guatemalan Highlands and make trips to back to the States to visit family and friends – Room for four most of the time

Take Care, 

Mark "Mitch" Mitchell

STARSHIP II (MMSI 367798280)

[001] 612-859-8121

markmitchell300@gmail.com  

"THERE'S A LAST TIME FOR EVERYTHING"